The criteria for great deep fried chicken are easy: the crust should be crispy and light, the chicken should be tender and succulent. With a few simple tricks it is possible to achieve this every time:
- Use wings or drum sticks (more flavor and juicier than breast)
- Coat them with a mixture of corn starch, salt, and baking powder and let them dry to make the skin more crispy and to allow the batter to stick better
- Use a mixture of corn starch and flour in the batter to get a light yet browned crust
- Add baking powder to the batter to add more air and to let it brown more easily (because of the higher pH)
- Use vodka in the batter to reduce formation of gluten (which would toughen the crust)
I knew most of these tricks already, but I had never used them all at the same time yet. This article on Serious Eats was what got me started. I tried the recipe, and it worked like a charm! The sweet soy sauce mentioned in the same article is also outstanding.
Kenji from Serious Eats prefers wings because of the higher skin-to-meat ratio. Personally I prefer drum sticks, but drum sticks have the disadvantage that the time needed to fry the crust to perfection is not sufficient to cook them through. I tried cooking the drum sticks sous-vide first, with outstanding results.
Ingredients
chicken wings or chicken drumsticks
1/4 cup (60 ml) corn starch
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
2-3 liter/quarts of vegetable oil suitable for deep frying, such as peanut oil
For the batter
1/2 cup (120 ml) corn starch
1/2 cup (120 ml) flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1/2 cup (120 ml) vodka
1/2 cup (120 ml) cold water
For the sweet soy sauce
1/2 cup (120 ml) soy sauce
2 Tbsp rice vinegar
1/4 cup (60 ml) mirin
3/4 cup (180 ml) brown sugar
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp freshly grated ginger
shichimi togarashi or dried red pepper flakes to taste
2 tsp sesame oil
1 Tbsp corn starch
green onions for garnish
Preparation
If using drum sticks, rub with salt on all sides, vacuum seal and cook sous-vide for 4 hours at 64.5C/148F. Cool quickly in (ice) cold water, remove from pouch and pat dry with paper towels.
Combine 1/4 cup corn starch, 1/2 tsp baking powder and 1 tsp salt in a bowl. Whisk to mix.
Coat the wings or drum sticks with this mixture on all sides.
Arrange on a wire rack in a single layer and refrigerate for at least half an hour, but preferably some hours or overnight.
You can see the difference after some drying.
For the batter combine 1/2 cup corn starch, 1/2 cup flour, 1 tsp salt, and 1/2 tsp baking powder in a bowl. Whisk to blend.
Add 1/2 cup vodka and 1/2 cup cold water.
Whisk energetically until there are no more lumps. The batter should be quite thin.
Dip the wings or drum sticks in the batter to coat them with a thin layer of batter on all sides. Shake off excess batter.
Deep fry at 180C/375F for 8 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine 1/2 cup (120 ml) soy sauce, 2 Tbsp rice vinegar, 1/4 cup (60 ml) mirin, 3/4 cup (180 ml) brown sugar, 2 cloves minced garlic, 1 tsp freshly grated ginger, 2 tsp sesame oil, and shichimi togarashi or dried red pepper flakes to taste in a saucepan. Stir to mix and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved.
Combine 1 Tbsp corn starch with 1 Tbsp cold water. Stir to mix until there are no more lumps.
Add the corn starch mixture to the sauce and stir to mix.
Cook for a minute until thickened. Allow to cool for a few minutes.
Drain the deep fried chicken on paper towels to get rid of excess oil.
Serve with the sweet soy sauce.
Wine pairing
We enjoyed this with a full-bodied Grüner Veltliner from Austria that goes well with Asian flavors. For the combination to work it has to be a more ‘tropical’ style Grüner Veltliner rather than a very dry and crispy style. A similar pinot blanc/bianco or sauvignon blanc (from New Zealand) would also work.
Good tip about letting the cornstarch dry on the skin first. I actually like chicken that has only a thin starch coating instead of batter (although I like the batter too). I also brine breasts if I am using them and often steam the chicken first… did you ever try marinating in buttermilk first?
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Have never tried marinating with buttermilk.
I’ve tried a drumstick without batter (only with the cornstarch) and it was not as good by far. The chicken was not as moist and the skin was not as crispy.
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Bet Colonel Sanders never thought to sous vide his fried chicken!
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🙂
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Really like using the sous-vide here to guarantee the chicken is done…we may adapt this approach to even bigger pieces- any reason that wouldn’t work?
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It works as long as the pieces aren’t so big that they won’t get warm all the way through from 8 minutes of deep frying. A way around that would be to limit the drying period to only half an hour or so, so the center will stay warm from the sous-vide cooking.
I think it will be great with breast as well, but then the sous-vide should be done at 60C/140F rather than 64.5C/148F.
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Perfect, thanks!
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Boy, Stefan! This sure does look crispy! I’m not much a fan of batter-fried chicken but, then again, I’ve not been at all successful with breadcrumb or flour coatings, either. Maybe it’s time I give batters a second chance, especially if something like yours is possible.
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Give it a try! You will love it! I should have made pictures of my second batch (unfortunately I did not) because I made the batter thinner with that one and it came out even better. The batter and skin form a very thin single crispy layer, i.e. you can’t distinguish between the skin and the batter.
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A deep fryer is on my wish list. Buttermilk is the southern way to go although it might be hard to find in the Netherlands
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Buttermilk is very easy to find here, every supermarket has it. For some reason marinating chicken in buttermilk seems strange to me, but perhaps I should try it some time 🙂
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Hmmmm…I never would have thoght about first cooking the chicken sous vide before frying. Very interesting technique. It’s definitely not Southern Fried Chicken. 😉
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I am aware of that 🙂
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Nice and well photographed recipe. I’ll try it on the weekend.
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Great, let me know how it turns out!
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