Black autumn truffles (Tuber Uncinatum) are in season and they are not as expensive as white truffles (Tuber Magnatum Pico). They are also not as fragrant, but for fragrant truffles their freshness is more important than their color. I’ve already written about risotto with dried truffles and truffle oil, but dried truffles and truffle oil are poor substitutes for the real thing. When you buy fresh truffles, make sure they are still very fragrant when you buy them, and use them as soon as possible.

If you have to store the truffles for a day and you are going to make risotto, then the best thing is to store the truffles in the refrigerator in an airtight container with the rice that you are going to use for the risotto! The rice will absorb any moisture (that would otherwise cause mold on the truffles) and will absorb any loss of flavor.

Truffles have a delicate earthy flavor and the best way to enjoy them is with a very simple risotto made with a mushroom stock. For the mushroom stock I’ve used fresh mushrooms, dried porcini mushrooms, and aromatic vegetables. Most of the truffles I grated and stirred into the risotto, the remaining truffle was used for garnish. If you can afford it, use white truffle (in season soon!) instead of black truffle. White truffle is much more fragrant, but also at least 5 times more expensive. If you are used to the overpowering aroma of truffle oil and you have never tasted fresh truffle before, you may be disappointed by the elegance of the flavor of fresh truffles. If you must, add a drop, but only a drop, of good quality truffle oil made from actual truffles (not the chemical stuff).

Ingredients

For 2 servings

130 grams (2/3 cup) risotto rice

70 grams (2.5 oz) fresh truffles

80 ml (1/3 cup) dry white wine

1 shallot, minced

750 ml (3 cups) mushroom stock (see below)

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 Tbsp butter

freshly grated parmigiano reggiano

salt

For the mushroom stock

25 grams (1 oz) dried porcini mushrooms

250 grams (.55 lb) fresh mushrooms

1 tomato, quartered

80 grams (1/3 cup) chopped celery

80 grams (1/3 cup) chopped carrot

80 grams (1/3 cup) chopped onion

parmigiano rind

Preparation

Start by making the stock. For best flavor extraction, mince the fresh mushrooms in the food processor.

Combine all the ingredients for the stock in a stockpot and cover with water (about 750 ml/3 cups). Cover, bring to a boil, and allow to simmer for an hour. Then strain, pushing down on the solids to extract as much stock as possible. Since the stock will be used for risotto, it is okay if it is cloudy. Keep the stock simmering for making the risotto.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the tablespoon of olive oil in a wide thick-bottomed pan. Add the shallot and sauté over medium low heat for about 5 minutes or until the shallot is soft and fragrant.

Add the rice and toast the rice over medium heat for a couple of minutes.

Add the white wine and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the wine has been absorbed by the rice.

Add a ladle of stock and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the stock has been absorbed by the rice.

Keep stirring and adding stock until the rice is almost cooked al dente and you have used up all the stock. If needed, add hot water if you run out of stock and the rice isn’t cooked yet.

Grate 3/4 of the truffles.

A gratuitous grated truffle shot is not as gratuitous as we’d all like, as the stuff is darn expensive.

When the rice is almost cooked, add the grated truffle.

Stir in the grated truffle.

Turn off the heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter and a bit of freshly grated parmigiano.

Stir until the butter and cheese have melted and allow the risotto to rest for a couple of minutes.

Meanwhile, slice the remaining truffle with a truffle slicer.

Serve the risotto on preheated plates, garnished with truffle slices and a slight sprinkle of freshly grated parmigiano.

Wine pairing

The aroma of truffles works well with Barolo or Barbaresco. As the flavor of truffle is very elegant, a Barbaresco or elegant Barolo will be a better match than a heavy Barolo.

Flashback

Another risotto, this one much more humble than truffle risotto: carrot risotto. The flavor of the carrots is enhanced by roasting them. What would also work, or perhaps even better, is to pressure cook the carrots with baking powder to caramelize them.