Category: Cooking

2. Primi (pasta, risotto), Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)15 Comments

Beef Ragù Napoletano (Primo + Secondo)

StefanGourmet

Ragù Napoletano is a traditional dish from Naples, Italy that is mostly eaten on Sundays. Large pieces of beef and pork are cooked low and slow in a tomato sauce, and then the meat-flavored tomato sauce is served over pasta as the primo piatto, followed by the meat with a bit of the sauce as the secondo piatto. I made this with a nicely marbled piece of Irish Angus chuck roast I had picked up, but you could also use other (tough) cuts of beef as well as pork. A mixture of different kinds of meat will give a fuller flavor. Fusilli … Continue reading Beef Ragù Napoletano (Primo + Secondo)

1. Antipasti (appetizers)12 Comments

Foie Gras Sous-vide with Sauternes, Beetroot and Roquefort

StefanGourmet

Georges Pralus of Restaurant Troisgros in Roanne, France, discovered that foie gras cooked sous-vide kept its original appearance, did not lose excess amounts of fat and had better texture. This was a major step in the development of sous-vide techniques for the restaurant and home kitchens. Although I’ve been cooking sous-vide, I had not cooked foie gras sous-vide yet. Since it was such a breakthrough dish, I felt I had to give it a try. The combination of foie gras with the botrytis dessert wine sauternes is famous, and since sauternes is also good with roquefort and roquefort is good … Continue reading Foie Gras Sous-vide with Sauternes, Beetroot and Roquefort

1. Antipasti (appetizers)12 Comments

Russian Salad

StefanGourmet

As part of the project of making ‘snackbar’ food from scratch, I thought there should also be a vegetable dish on the menu. Vegetables are not a popular menu item in these ‘restaurants’, unless you count potatoes and ketchup as vegetables. I decided to make a Russian Salad (known as “Huzarensalade” in Dutch, named after hussars, the light cavalry that comes from Russia and other Eastern European countries). Russian Salad consists of boiled potatoes, boiled vegetables, ham, and mayonnaise. I left out the ham to make a vegetarian version, but you could of course include it again. Russian Salad has … Continue reading Russian Salad

Basics18 Comments

Home-made Mayonnaise

StefanGourmet

One of the basics that many people fear is making your own mayonnaise from scratch. It is actually quite easy if you follow three rules: make sure the egg yolks and the oil are the same (room) temperature, separate the egg yolks neatly, and start by adding the oil drop for drop. It also helps to have an electric appliance (mixer, food processor, blender) to do the whisking for you, but you can also make it by hand. Mayonnaise is one of the basic sauces, and in the Netherlands and Belgium it can’t be missed with fries. Mayonnaise is an … Continue reading Home-made Mayonnaise

1. Antipasti (appetizers)15 Comments

Corn Soup with Crab

StefanGourmet

When I read about the “Luscious Creamy Corn Soup with Crab” on Richard McGary’s blog REMCooks, I immediately knew I just had to try this. I hardly ever cook with either corn or crab, so this would be something new and exciting. It was quite a bit of work, but it turned out great! This is a very elegant dish for a fancy dinner party or special occasion. Thanks for the idea, Richard! The local North Sea crab is a bit different from the king crab that Richard used. King crab is available here, but only deep frozen and ridiculously … Continue reading Corn Soup with Crab

Contorni (side dishes)7 Comments

Chervil Root and Parsley Root

StefanGourmet

I found some interesting new types of root vegetable that are not very common: chervil root and parsley root. Both are roots of the better-known herbs (especially parsley), cultivated especially for the roots. Parsley roots can easily be mistaken for parnips and are of a similar size but taste like parsley. Chervil roots look like short golden carrots, feel light compared to their size and have a sweet nutty flavor. Chervil roots are quite expensive, but parsley roots are priced similarly to parsnips. Both can be prepared in several ways, including roasting, making puree, or deep-frying. In this case I … Continue reading Chervil Root and Parsley Root

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)22 Comments

Neck of Lamb Sous-Vide

StefanGourmet

The ‘secondo’ (main dish) for my lamb extravaganza was this: neck of lamb sous-vide, rack of lamb, parsley root puree and roasted chervil root, served with a lamb jus. The recipes for the parsley root and chervil root will follow in my next post, this post will deal with the neck of lamb. The neck is one of the tastiest cuts of lamb, but also one of the toughest because the neck musles are used a lot. It is ideally suited for cooking sous-vide, which will make it melt-in-your-mouth tender while keeping it succulent. For a good crispy crust I both … Continue reading Neck of Lamb Sous-Vide

Basics28 Comments

Lamb Stock

StefanGourmet

A lamb menu (more about that in yesterday’s post) would not be complete without sauces based on stock made from the bones and scraps of meat from the same lamb. And so I asked the butcher for some of the bones and used them to make a stock. Making a meat stock is very easy and doesn’t take a lot of active time. The process is the same for most types of stock, the main difference is that in lamb stock you use bones from lamb, in beef stock from beef, etc. The quality of the stock is very important … Continue reading Lamb Stock

1. Antipasti (appetizers)14 Comments

Smoked Ham of Lamb

StefanGourmet

I had picked up a very nice double magnum of 1998 red Sancerre from Henri Bourgeois at the winery, and decided to open it for a dinner party with friends who I knew would enjoy it. A double magnum equals 4 regular bottles, so I had to think of several dishes that would be eaten with this wine. I decided that if we would drink one wine with all three savory dishes of the meal (antipasto, primo, secondo), then an appropriate theme would be to base all the dishes on the same main ingredient. Since red sancerre (similar to red … Continue reading Smoked Ham of Lamb

4. Dolci (dessert)14 Comments

Maple Ice Cream

StefanGourmet

Since I was doing a Thanksgiving-themed dessert and pumpkin pairs well with maple syrup, I decided to serve homemade maple ice cream with my first pumpkin pie. I saw a very straightforward recipe for this on Serious Eats and it turned out great with a very deep maple flavor. It also paired well with the pumpkin pie. Since the fat content of different types of cream and the names for them vary all over the place, I’m specifying the approximate fat content you’re looking for so you can find a mixture of locally available cream and milk that will get you … Continue reading Maple Ice Cream

4. Dolci (dessert)22 Comments

My First Pumpkin Pie

StefanGourmet

Last week was Thanksgiving and pumpkin pie is a traditional Thanksgiving dessert. Americans among you might find this hard to believe, but I had never eaten a single slice of pumpkin pie before in my entire life. When I was throwing a dinner party last Saturday and needed to decide on a dessert, I thought it would be nice to try and bake my own pumpkin pie. I saw a recipe for pumpkin pie on the blog of the Unorthodox Epicure, also known as Adam J. Holland, for what he claims to be the ultimate pumpkin pie. I had already decided … Continue reading My First Pumpkin Pie

Contorni (side dishes)15 Comments

Caramelized Fennel

StefanGourmet

This simple but tasty side dish was inspired by a post by PutneyFarm. Fennel is one of many vegetables that shines most when it’s roasted or broiled or grilled or braised to concentrate the flavor. Raw fennel also has its charm, just don’t boil or steam it because then it will be bland. PutneyFarm panfries the fennel to allow it to caramelize, but I decided to use the broiler instead. It was quite easy to do, but a bit hard to control the caramelizing because it turns from underdone to overdone in a very short time. (For the scientists among … Continue reading Caramelized Fennel

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)10 Comments

Spaghetti with Butternut Squash (Spaghetti alla Zucca)

StefanGourmet

I find recipes with butternut squash are often lacking in taste, or don’t taste of squash. I decided to give M&M’s recipe for Angel Hair with Butternut Squash and Sage a try anyway, and I’m glad that I did because it is not only very tasty but also tastes of butternut squash. I used regular spaghetti since I didn’t have the thinner spaghettini (also known as angel hair). Here’s my version. Thanks again for a great recipe, M&M! Ingredients For 2 servings 150-200 grams (1/3 – 1/2 pound) spaghetti 1/2 of a butternut squash 1 garlic clove, minced 12 sage leaves, … Continue reading Spaghetti with Butternut Squash (Spaghetti alla Zucca)

Secondi di Pesce (fish dishes)16 Comments

Simple Succulent Salmon

StefanGourmet

It is amazing how good the most simple dishes can be. The only thing you need for this is fresh salmon, farmed is fine, and a digital instant-read thermometer with a probe. The salmon is cooked to medium rare in the oven and will be so tender and succulent that you can eat it with a spoon. You can serve the salmon with your preferred sides, fresh herbs, or sauce, but it’s good enough by itself. This is so easy that anyone can do it. Please give this a try, you will be amazed! Ingredients Fresh (not frozen) salmon fillet, … Continue reading Simple Succulent Salmon

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)22 Comments

Lepre alla Cacciatora (Hare Legs Stewed in Red Wine)

StefanGourmet

As I pointed out before, although both are furry and have long ears, a hare (“lepre” in Italian) is red meat and different from the white meat of a rabbit (“coniglio”). The recipe for Lepre alla Cacciatora (Hare Hunter’s Style, or in fact the wife of the hunter) is however quite similar to the recipe for Coniglio alla Cacciatora. Both are stewed in wine and tomatoes. The main differences are that hare is marinated and cooked in red wine with just a bit of tomato, whereas the rabbit isn’t marinated and cooked in white wine and tomatoes. I made this … Continue reading Lepre alla Cacciatora (Hare Legs Stewed in Red Wine)

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)21 Comments

Hare Loin with Sauerkraut and Chestnuts

StefanGourmet

Hare loin (“hazenrugfilet” in Dutch) is the most prized part of a hare: it is very tender but lean red meat with a lot of flavor. Hare has a ‘gamey’ taste, which is not appreciated by everyone. Hare loin is often served with sweet garnishes or sauces such as port and figs, but it also works great with sauerkraut. You can hunt, skin, and butcher your own hare, or you can just get it from the butcher. This preparation is quite easy if you already have the hare loins and hare stock. I used steamed chestnuts as they are sold … Continue reading Hare Loin with Sauerkraut and Chestnuts

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)14 Comments

Home-skinned Hare, Part 1: Hare Stock

StefanGourmet

If you are a vegetarian, this is probably a good point to turn back. I like to eat meat and I believe it is natural for humans to eat meat. I believe that if you eat meat, you should be prepared to face the fact that it came from a live animal. But I do get a bit squeamish when I have to deal with a dead furry animal that still has its skin. And I’m glad that this hare was already killed when we got it, as I’m not sure how prepared I would be to kill it myself — … Continue reading Home-skinned Hare, Part 1: Hare Stock

Secondi di Pesce (fish dishes)11 Comments

Homemade Fish Fingers

StefanGourmet

Like so many things, homemade fish fingers are so much better than store-bought! They are quite easy to make and you get to control what goes in them. So only the freshest fish, homemade breadcrumbs and an organic egg. For these fish fingers I used fresh Atlantic wolffish (“zeewolf” in Dutch, also known as “seawolf”). Since you will use fresh fish rather than frozen, the fish will be that much more flavorful and succulent. I suppose fish fingers were invented for people who don’t like to recognize that they are in fact eating fish, but I like them anyway since … Continue reading Homemade Fish Fingers

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)10 Comments

Spaghetti with Red Wine and Leeks (Spaghetti Ubriachi)

StefanGourmet

I had some leeks and wanted to make a pasta dish with leeks. I looked for inspiration on GialloZafferano, the leading Italian cooking website (in Italian, although some of their YouTube vids including this one are also available dubbed in English), and my query for “porro” (leek) returned a recipe for spaghetti with red wine and leeks called Spaghetti Ubriachi (‘drunken’ spaghetti). The recipe looked very simple and worth trying, so I gave it a go. I was not disappointed: a lot of flavor in less than half an hour: a perfect weekday dish. I wouldn’t shy away from serving … Continue reading Spaghetti with Red Wine and Leeks (Spaghetti Ubriachi)

1. Antipasti (appetizers)14 Comments

Amazing Sous-Vide Vitello Tonnato

StefanGourmet

If you’ve never had vitello tonnato before, you probably think veal and tuna are an unlikely pair. But in fact this classic dish from the Piemonte region in Italy (called vitel tonnà in the Piemontese language) is a great combination. Traditionally, vitello tonnato is made by poaching the “girello” cut of “Fassone” veal (a prized Piemontese breed of veal) in a stock with aromatic vegetables and white wine, sliced thinly and served with a sauce of canned tuna, hard-boiled eggs, capers, anchovies, extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and a bit of the cooking liquid. Girello (also known as tondino … Continue reading Amazing Sous-Vide Vitello Tonnato

Cooking18 Comments

Quiche Lorraine (Quiche Alsacienne)

StefanGourmet

A quiche is a savory pie with a custard-based filling. Lorraine is a region in north-east France that has mixed German-French history and is called Lothringen in German. The word “quiche” comes from German “Küchen” (pie). According to wikipedia there are three types of quiche: Lorraine: with bacon (lardons) only, Vosgienne: with bacon and cheese, and Alsacienne: with bacon, onions and cheese. There is even a “Syndicat National de Défense et de Promotion de l’Authentique Quiche Lorraine” (National Society for the Protection and Promotion of the Authentic Quiche Lorraine) that says that an authentic Quiche Lorraine may only contain shortcrust pastry, egg, bacon, crême fraîche, pepper … Continue reading Quiche Lorraine (Quiche Alsacienne)

Asian cuisine14 Comments

35aweek’s Potstickers (Guotie)

StefanGourmet

Pan-fried Chinese dumplings are called “guotie” in Chinese, which literally means “pan stick”. In North America these are known as potstickers, and I had  only had them there. The interesting thing about them is that they are pan-fried and steamed at the same time. When I read 35aweek’s recipe for what she calls “Best-ever potstickers”, I just knew I had to try making these. Since this was my first attempt at making Asian dumplings, I decided to use store-bought dough. I think I may have ended up buying wrappers that were slightly thicker than they should be, because the edges … Continue reading 35aweek’s Potstickers (Guotie)

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)7 Comments

REMCook’s Breaded Chicken Breast Fried in Claried Butter

StefanGourmet

My favorite recipes are simple and elegant. The less ingredients, the better. When I recently blogged about my first homemade batch of clarified butter, Richard McGary commented “Now that you have your clarified butter, if you want to try something, get a boneless, skinless chicken breast; season it with a little salt and pepper; bread it in bread crumbs from fresh bread, not stale or dried bread; and sauté it in the clarified butter. This is a remarkably simple technique with minimal seasoning but the flavor you will get with the butter and bread coupled with the moist chicken is mind … Continue reading REMCook’s Breaded Chicken Breast Fried in Claried Butter

1. Antipasti (appetizers)13 Comments

Vongole with Pancetta

StefanGourmet

I was intrigued by PutneyFarms’s combination of clams with bacon, so I decided to give this a try even though I had never heard of this in Italy. Of course I did have to Italify things slightly by using pancetta rather than bacon and parsley rather than thyme. The combination of vongole with pancetta worked well: the tastes complement each other. It is nice to serve with crusty homemade bread to soak op the juices, although those turn out quite salty. This dish has a lot of taste for the small amount of work involved. Ingredients For 3-4 servings as an … Continue reading Vongole with Pancetta

Cooking24 Comments

The Proof of the Duck is in the Eating

StefanGourmet

I was intrigued by Conor’s Canard à l’Orange post. He cooks the duck breast on the skin side over low heat for 30-40 minutes to render the fat out of it, while I always do this as quickly as possible over high heat. My theory behind this was that this would lead to less overcooking of the duck meat, but since Conor knows his business I thought I needed to give his method a try. Empirical evidence is better than theoretical speculations. Or in other words, the proof of the pudding duck is in the eating. I started with a … Continue reading The Proof of the Duck is in the Eating

Secondi di Pesce (fish dishes)23 Comments

Scallops and Shrimp with a Vanilla Sauce, Pea Puree and Parsnip Puree

StefanGourmet

Wine is often paired with food, but it can be inspiring to take a bottle of wine as the starting point and try to cook something that will go well with it. Oak barrels can give a hint of vanilla to wines, and so I thought it would be fun to make a vanilla cream sauce to go with a creamy oaked chardonnay. It worked out really well, and the pairing was outstanding. The wine went well with the vanilla creaminess of the sauce as well as with the seafood. The combination of scallops with parsnip and peas is something … Continue reading Scallops and Shrimp with a Vanilla Sauce, Pea Puree and Parsnip Puree

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)12 Comments

Ravioli al Salmone Affumicato (Ravioli with Smoked Salmon)

StefanGourmet

I thought it would be nice to hot-smoke a piece of salmon, make fresh ricotta, make home-made ravioli and serve it with a pink sauce. Turned out I was right, as it was delicious. For an easier version you could buy the smoked salmon (either hot-smoked or cold-smoked will work) and the ricotta, but it will be tastier, more rewarding as well as more fun to do it yourself… Ingredients For 16 ravioli (3 servings as part of a larger menu) 125 grams (1/4 pound) fresh salmon fillet, preferably with skin as that is easier to handle (substitute with store … Continue reading Ravioli al Salmone Affumicato (Ravioli with Smoked Salmon)

Dutch cuisine23 Comments

Home-made Belgian Fries

StefanGourmet

Belgian Fries (known as “Vlaamse friet” or simply “patat” in the Netherlands) are very popular in both Belgium and the Netherlands. The main difference with French fries is that they are thicker. Belgian fries should be freshly cut, fried twice, fluffy on the inside, crispy on the ouside, have a distinct potato taste, and are 1 cm (1/2 inch) thick. Belgian fries are usually served in a paper cone when you buy them from a street vendor, but at home I just serve them on a plate. For the best taste, real Belgian fries must be fried in beef tallow … Continue reading Home-made Belgian Fries