Category: Cooking

Asian cuisine3 Comments

Japanese Chicken loaf with Eggplant and Ginger

StefanGourmet

My favorite Japanese cookbook is “Japanese cooking: a simple art” by Shizuo Tsuji. Since some ingredients are hard to come by outside of Japan and because I don’t have a very good reference (unlike Italian food, in many cases I don’t have a clue what it is supposed to taste like) I haven’t cooked as much out of this book as I would like to. One of my favorite recipes from the book that I have cooked many times before is the chicken loaf. Here I’ve served it with roasted eggplant, a ginger-soy dipping sauce and Japanese rice. This recipe … Continue reading Japanese Chicken loaf with Eggplant and Ginger

Basics14 Comments

How to make fresh spinach pasta

StefanGourmet

The ‘how to’ I wrote for making fresh pasta did mention spinach pasta, but didn’t really go into the details. I took some pictures when I recently made spinach tagliatelle with white ragù so now I can show step by step how to make fresh home-made spinach pasta from scratch. Spinach pasta can be used for all kinds of pasta such as tagliatelle, lasagne or ravioli. Ingredients per person: 1 egg, 100 grams (3/4 cup) of semolina flour, 50 grams (2 oz) of fresh spinach. You can go as high as 100 grams (4 oz) of fresh spinach, but then … Continue reading How to make fresh spinach pasta

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)9 Comments

Rabbit leg sous-vide with rosemary

StefanGourmet

“Rabbit sous vide” or variations of that are by far the most popular search term for people finding my blog through Google. Since I had only posted about rabbit sous-vide once and that was with a tomato sauce, I thought it would be nice to post about rabbit sous-vide without sauce as well. This is even easier to make, and still has all the advantages of sous-vide cooking: tender and moist rabbit instead of tough and dry. The preparation is extremely simple. Season each rabbit leg with salt and freshly ground black pepper and insert it into a pouch. Rub … Continue reading Rabbit leg sous-vide with rosemary

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)7 Comments

Home-made Bigoli alle Vongole

StefanGourmet

Two years ago we visited the city of Mantova in northern Italy and loved the Bigoli alle Vongole we had at Trattoria Cento Rampini. I was used to making pasta alle vongole with dried linguine or spaghetti, but really liked it made with bigoli. Bigoli are thick hollow spaghetti, made by extrusion. I am not sure if Cento Rampini used fresh or dried bigoli and whether theirs included eggs or not. During the same trip to Italy I picked up my own pasta extruder, so I’ve made bigoli alle vongole and other dishes with extruded pasta since. I like to … Continue reading Home-made Bigoli alle Vongole

Contorni (side dishes)8 Comments

Peperonata

StefanGourmet

Peperonata is a classic Italian side dish with peppers as the main ingredient. It is good with light meats such as chicken, rabbit or even frog legs. It is simple to make, healthy and very tasty. Instead of eating it as a side, you could also serve peperonata as pasta sauce over penne rigate, or even as a topping for crostini. Ingredients 1 red pepper (capsicum) 1 yellow pepper (capsicum) 1 green pepper (capsicum) 200 ml (1 cup) passata (sieved tomatoes) 150 grams (1/3 pound) red onions 1 garlic glove salt and fresly ground black pepper olive oil Preparation Slice … Continue reading Peperonata

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)6 Comments

Risotto sous-vide with Asparagus and Goat cheese

StefanGourmet

The traditional way of making risotto is a bit of a chore. Sauté a minced onion, toast the rice, add wine, and then keep adding stock and stirring for around 18 minutes. Finish with some butter and in many cases (but not always) grated parmigiano. Adding the stock in parts instead of all at once is needed to get the correct texture: the grains of rice will stay whole instead of breaking and will release more thickening starch. I don’t mind the effort, but for a weekday meal after work or for a dinner party it is not very convenient. … Continue reading Risotto sous-vide with Asparagus and Goat cheese

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)2 Comments

Tagliatelle Verdi con Ragù Bianco

StefanGourmet

My love for the Italian kitchen has partly originated from a woman whom I’ve never had the pleasure to meet: Biba Caggiano. She is an Italian from Bologna who moved to the USA in 1960 and later opened her own restaurant in Sacramento (where I have eaten in 2009, but sadly she wasn’t around herself because she was sick at the time — best authentic Italian food I’ve eaten in the USA despite her absence) and wrote many cookbooks. I received one of her first books, Modern Italian Cooking as a birthday gift in 1998. Trying the recipes in this … Continue reading Tagliatelle Verdi con Ragù Bianco

Dutch cuisine21 Comments

Dutch Easter bread (Paasstol)

StefanGourmet

One of the traditional treats for Easter in the Netherlands is a “paasstol”: a bread filled with raisins and almond paste. The same bread is also made with Christmas and then called “kerststol”. Other than the name, there is no real difference. In many cases the filling also contains candied fruits and hazelnuts, but I prefer just raisins. A similar bread is made in Germany and then called “Stollen” (Weihnachtsstollen, Christstollen). Instead of proper almond paste, a store-bought stol will in many cases contain ‘confectioner’s paste’ (“banketbakkersspijs”) which is actually made from beans instead of almonds. It is of course … Continue reading Dutch Easter bread (Paasstol)

Cooking9 Comments

Sous-vide egg

StefanGourmet

For Easter it is a tradition in the Netherlands, as in many other places around the world, to eat lots of eggs. Conor’s post about poached eggs reminded me that I had not yet blogged about eggs sous-vide. Cooking an egg sous-vide was the first thing I tried with my sous-vide water bath about 15 months ago, that was basically the ‘christening’ of the water bath. At 64C/147F The egg whites came out a bit softer than I liked. I needed to go to 67C/152F to get the egg whites just set, but by then the egg yolk didn’t have the … Continue reading Sous-vide egg

Cooking7 Comments

Cooking from scratch

StefanGourmet

When I’m cooking, I make almost everything from scratch using good quality ingredients. Often (but not always) it’s more work than something from a store-bought package or jar, but since I actually like to cook that is not a big problem and there are many advantages: Food cooked from scratch usually tastes better If you cook food from scratch, you actually know what you’re eating and it’s healthier Food cooked from scratch is often cheaper And the most important one: cooking food from scratch is fun and rewarding! It’s not really difficult, and practice will make it even easier. I’ve … Continue reading Cooking from scratch

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)3 Comments

Beetroot gnocchi (Gnocchi di barbabietole)

StefanGourmet

After a less than fully satisfactory first attempt last week at making beetroot gnocchi that did not turn out as ‘beetrooty’ as I had wanted, my second attempt was a success! More beetroot flavor with a simpler recipe. I served them with a gorgonzola sauce. To make the beetroot flavor stand out even more, you could serve them with a lighter sauce. The combination with gorgonzola works well, though. Ingredients For 2 generous servings 750 grams (1.6 lbs) beetroots 1 egg yolk 50 grams (1.8 oz) flour (Italian 00) 50 grams (1.8 oz) potato starch salt bit of semolina flour for … Continue reading Beetroot gnocchi (Gnocchi di barbabietole)

1. Antipasti (appetizers)8 Comments

Venetian marinated Mackerel ‘in saor’ sous-vide

StefanGourmet

A classic and delicious dish from Venice is pesce in saôr, which does not mean ‘sour’ fish but ‘flavored’ fish (saôr comes from ‘sapore’). The recipe was invented in Venice as a way to preserve fish, and even though we have refrigerators nowadays we still make it because it is so tasty! In this modern version I’ve made two changes to the classical recipe: I’ve used mackerel rather than the more usual white fish (such as cod or hake) and I’ve cooked the fish sous-vide. When you use white fish, the subtle flavor of the fish will be overpowered by the … Continue reading Venetian marinated Mackerel ‘in saor’ sous-vide

4. Dolci (dessert)4 Comments

Black Forest Cake

StefanGourmet

I’ve always liked Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, but this is the first time I’ve made a Black Forest Cake from scratch. It turned out great, although my cake-decorating skills are not outstanding. Ingredients For the cake (24 cm/9″ springform pan) 75 grams butter 140 grams dark chocolate 100 grams flour 15 grams baking powder 50 grams corn starch 6 eggs 180 grams sugar (preferably vanilla-scented by keeping used vanilla beans in the sugar jar) For the filling 500 grams (net weight) pitted sour cherries with syrup from a can or jar, preferably Italian amarene 70 ml kirsch (cherry brandy) 750 ml whipping cream … Continue reading Black Forest Cake

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)7 Comments

35aweek’s Pasta with Cabbage and Gorgonzola

StefanGourmet

After the success with the parsnip ragù from $35 a week I decided to try her recipe for pasta with cabbage and gorgonzola well. I’m always looking for new ways to use vegetables, especially if I don’t eat them very often like cabbage. This recipe is very simple, quick and tasty, especially if you like blue cheese because that’s what it tastes like! With pasta dishes I always try to match the texture of the pasta with the texture of the sauce (or create a contrast on purpose). Since this sauce has a ‘fine’ texture, I decided to use gnocchetti rather … Continue reading 35aweek’s Pasta with Cabbage and Gorgonzola

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)2 Comments

Orecchiette with Endive and Pancetta (Orecchiette Indivia e Pancetta)

StefanGourmet

This is my most successful attempt at Dutch-Italian fusion and I make it quite often as it is as quick and easy to prepare as it is delicious! The flavors of the bitter endive, the sweet pancetta, the freshness of the white wine and the heartiness (umami) of the parmigiano blend really well. Just like most Italian dishes, the result will depend on the quality of the ingredients. This dish will taste best if you use actual pancetta, fresh endive (rather than already cut when you buy it), freshly grated nutmeg, freshly grated parmigiano and artisan orechiette. The classic Dutch … Continue reading Orecchiette with Endive and Pancetta (Orecchiette Indivia e Pancetta)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)1 Comment

35aweek’s Beef & parsnip ragù (Ragù di manzo e pastinaca)

StefanGourmet

I saw the recipe for Wine-braised beef & parsnip ragù on 35aweek‘s blog and thought it could be good, even though I had never tasted or heard of this combination. So I decided to give it a try, sticking mostly to her recipe. Cooking beef and vegetables in the same stew is always a challenge since the temperature needed to cook the vegetables is too high to cook meat without drying it out, but this recipe works around that by shredding the beef. The good thing about drying out the beef is that the flavor doesn’t just disappear but ends … Continue reading 35aweek’s Beef & parsnip ragù (Ragù di manzo e pastinaca)

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)1 Comment

Beetroot gnocchi: not as beetrooty as I wanted

StefanGourmet

I wanted to try making beetroot gnocchi. Most recipes I found on the internet seemed to be more about the color than the taste of beetroot, since only small quantities of beetroot were used. So I tried to make it with as much beetroot as possible and they turned out fine, but did not have a strong taste of beetroot. Perhaps it was the quality of the beetroots I used or perhaps I should try to use even more beetroot, but that will be pushing it in terms of making sure that the gnocchi will not disintegrate during cooking. So … Continue reading Beetroot gnocchi: not as beetrooty as I wanted

2. Primi (pasta, risotto)7 Comments

Fusilli ai Peperoni (Pasta with roasted peppers)

StefanGourmet

A simple and healthy dish with a delicious flavor: pasta with roasted peppers. The other flavors (basil, anchovies, garlic, chilli pepper) are only used to support and enhance the flavor of roasted peppers. Ingredients For 2 servings 150-200 grams (1/3-1/2 pound) of fusilli or other short pasta such as rigatoni 2 red peppers 500 grams (1 pound) plum tomatoes 3 anchovy fillets, minced (optional) 1 clove garlic, minced dried chilli pepper olive oil salt 6 leaves basil Preparation Preheat the oven to 250C/480F. Brush the red peppers lightly with olive oil. This helps to cook the skin at a higher … Continue reading Fusilli ai Peperoni (Pasta with roasted peppers)

Secondi di Pesce (fish dishes)12 Comments

Prosciutto-wrapped Monkfish sous-vide

StefanGourmet

Simple but delicious: monkfish wrapped in prosciutto di parma. Slightly crispy prosciutto on the outside, tender juicy fish on the inside. If you don’t have a sous-vide water bath, you can get a similar result (still great but not as juicy) with an oven and an instant-read meat thermometer. Ingredients For each serving 120 grams (4 oz) monkfish fillet (Dutch: zeeduivel; French: lotte; Italian: rana pescatrice, coda di rospo) 2 thin slices of prosciutto di parma salt Preparation Ask your fishmonger to remove the slimy skin. Rinse the monkfish under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Cut into … Continue reading Prosciutto-wrapped Monkfish sous-vide

Dutch cuisine4 Comments

Hotchpotch with sous-vide braised beef (Hutspot met draadjesvlees)

StefanGourmet

One of my favorite traditional Dutch dishes is “hutspot met draadjesvlees”: mashed potatoes, carrots and onions with braised beef and gravy. According to legend the recipe originates from the Siege of Leiden in 1574, but that cannot be accurate because potatoes were not eaten in Holland yet at that time (so it was probably parsnip back then). The traditional preparation means that you boil the potatoes, carrots and onions in ample water, but to amplify the flavor I sauté the onions in butter and use as little water as possible. I’ve braised the beef sous-vide for additional juicyness and tenderness. … Continue reading Hotchpotch with sous-vide braised beef (Hutspot met draadjesvlees)

Secondi di Carne (meat dishes)5 Comments

Pork shoulder sous-vide

StefanGourmet

I’ve made pork shoulder sous-vide before, and that was pretty good in a tender medium-rare style (cooked at 55C/131F for 48 hours). This time I wanted a “braised” texture, and so tried 36 hours at 65C/149F as advised in Modernist Cuisine. It came out very nice: juicy and so tender you could eat it with a fork. Here’s what I did. I used a piece of boneless pork shoulder with some nice marbling. The meat will turn out dry if you use very lean meat in this preparation. First I made a rub of some fresh sage leaves, salt and … Continue reading Pork shoulder sous-vide

Secondi di Pesce (fish dishes)10 Comments

Experiment with the Girardet method for broiling fish

StefanGourmet

When I started this blog, I wrote that I would “strive to share every single interesting experience with respect to food and wine”. This means sharing both the successes and the failures. Although the result of this experiment was certainly edible and not bad, it was not the “magical” result that I was hoping for. I’m going through “Modernist Cuisine”, the amazing set of books by Nathan Myhrvold et al. On pages 2-24 and 2-25 the “Girardet Method” for broiling fish is described. Fish is simultaneously broiled and poached in white wine. It didn’t look too hard to do and … Continue reading Experiment with the Girardet method for broiling fish

Cooking5 Comments

Mackerel & Sauerkraut Quiche

StefanGourmet

Mackerel is healthy to eat because of the omega-3 fatty acids it contains. After discovering by accident that sauerkraut and smoked mackerel go really well together, I decided to try making a mackerel & sauerkraut quiche. And guess what? It was really good, so I’ve been making it more often since. Apart from the baking time it doesn’t take much time to make it at all, as little as 5 minutes if you use a store-bought pie crust for the quiche. I’ve found that it’s not easy to make a better pie crust yourself than what you can buy in the … Continue reading Mackerel & Sauerkraut Quiche