Pork Tamales

dsc04459

As there aren’t many Mexican restaurants around here and those that are there are probably not very authentic, I don’t eat a lot of Mexican (or Tex-Mex) food that I don’t prepare myself. And so I had never before seen or tasted tamales. Ever since I saw the recipe on Richard’s blog, I wanted to make them. If you want to know more about the history of tamales, go visit Richard’s wonderful blog post for a very entertaining story.

Tamales are a bit like baozi or bapao, filled buns that are steamed from China/Indonesia. For tamales the ‘bun’ is made from masa, instant masa corn flour mixed with stock (or water) and lard (pork fat) and wrapped in a corn husk, banana leaf, avocado leaf, or paper before it is steamed. Maseca is the most common brand of the instant masa corn flour you need. The corn flour needs to be nixtamalized, a process whereby the corn is dried and then treated by soaking and cooking in a diluted solution of slaked lime or wood ash. This is an ancient process and I think it is pretty impressive it was discovered thousands of years ago that nixtamalizing enhances not only the flavor but also the nutritional value of corn.

There are many types of fillings; in this case I stayed close to Richard’s recipe and used pork. Richard, and many other sources online, state that making tamales is a lot of work. In terms of effort it is comparable to making ravioli from scratch, something I do on a regular basis, so I thought it is very doable. It is still a good idea to have a tamalada, a party where you make and then eat the tamales together with friends.

The result was absolutely delicious, so it sure is worth to put in the effort! I made some minor changes, as I cooked the pork sous-vide instead of in a slowcooker (no surprises there), used pork stock to make the masa instead of chicken stock, toasted the chiles, and used a roux of masa and lard to thicken the sauce instead of bread. But otherwise I used Richard’s recipe and instructions. I wish he could have seen this. If you don’t have sous-vide equipment, visit Richard’s blog for instructions to cook the meat in a slowcooker (which could easily be adapted to cooking in the oven or on the stovetop instead).

Ingredients

Makes about 16 tamales

dsc04444

banana leaves (or corn husks, avocado leaves, or paper)

dsc04354

For the masa

350 grams (3 1/4 cups) maseca

840 ml (3 1/2 cups) pork stock

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp baking powder

150 grams (3/4 cup) lard, at room temperature

For the pork

1 kg (2.2 lbs) pork shoulder

1 1/2 tsp celery salt

1/2 tsp garlic powder

1 1/2 tsp ground cumin

1 1/2 tsp dried oregano

1/2 tsp ground black pepper

dsc04404

For the sauce

3 New Mexico chiles

2 Guajillo chiles

1 ui, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

juices from the sous-vide bag (about 250 ml, 1 cup)

1/2 Tbsp dried oregano

1/2 tsp cumin

1 Tbsp lard

2 Tbsp maseca

salt, to taste

 

Instructions

dsc04355

Cut a kilo of pork shoulder into thick slices (so it is easier for the spices to penetrate the meat).

dsc04360

In a small bowl prepare the dry rub by mixing 1 1/2 tsp celery salt, 1/2 tsp garlic powder, 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin, 1 1/2 tsp dried oregano, 1/2 tsp ground black pepper.

dsc04364

Rub the spice mixture into the meat on all sides.

dsc04365

Vacuum seal…

dsc04367

…and cook sous-vide for 24 hours at 74C/165F.

dsc04403

Take the bags out of the sous-vide after 24 hours. Reserve the juices from the bag(s), you should have about 250 ml (1 cup)…

dsc04423

…and chop the meat (or use two forks) to get the texture of pulled pork.

dsc04406

Carefully toast 3 New Mexico chiles and 2 Guajillo chiles in a medium hot pan for about 5-10 seconds per side.

dsc04407

In a blender combine the toasted chiles with a chopped onion and a chopped garlic clove, 1/2 tablespoon dried oregano and 1/2 teaspoon cumin.

dsc04409

Add the reserved juices from the sous-vide bag, then process…

dsc04413

…until the sauce is completely smooth.

dsc04414

Melt a tablespoon of lard in a saucepan.

dsc04416

Add 2 tablespoons of maseca.

dsc04417

Stir over low heat until it becomes golden, about 1 minute.

dsc04418

Add the sauce from the blender…

dsc04421

…and stir over medium heat until the sauce comes to a boil and thickens, then turn off the heat.

dsc04424

Add the sauce to the meat in a large bowl…

dsc04427

…and stir to mix. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The hardest part when preparing this recipe is to stop yourself from eating the entire bowl! I’m serious, we had a tamalada and I had to hide the bowl to keep it safe!

dsc04422

To make the masa, put 150 grams of lard, which must be at room temperature as otherwise it is too firm, with a teaspoon of cold water in the bowl of a stand mixer.

dsc04425

Whisk this until the lard is fluffy.

dsc04431

Then add 840 ml of pork stock, 300 grams of maseca, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon baking powder.

dsc04433

Process with a balloon whisk until the mixture is homogenous.

dsc04434

Then add the remaining 50 grams of maseca.

dsc04435

Continue to process until it has been incorporated.

dsc04440

Drop a teaspoon of the masa in cold water. If it sinks, the masa is not fluffy enough and you need to process it longer…

dsc04438

…until a teaspoon of masa floats in cold water.

dsc04441

The masa is now ready to be used.

dsc04454

Wash and dry the banana leaves before using them. Corn husks have to be soaked before they can be used, but banana leaves need to be toasted briefly in a medium hot frying pan. This will make them more flexible. Only about 10 seconds per side is needed. If they are not toasted or if they are toasted for too long, they will be brittle and will break when you try to fold them.

dsc04446

The banana leaves I used were round, so I tore off a small piece from one side. Spread out about 2 tablespoons of masa on a banana leaf, leaving an edge of about 5 cm (2 inches) on one side.

dsc04448

Arrange about 2 tablespoons of filling on top.

dsc04450

Now close the first ‘flap’…

dsc04451

…then the second…

dsc04452

…and finally fold over the edge that didn’t have any masa. You have now created an envelope that is open on one side.

dsc04453

Stack the tamales in a steaming basket with the open side up.

dsc04459

Keep going until you have used up all the filling and/or masa.

dsc04460

Put the steaming basket over a pot with about 5 cm (2 inches) of simmering water…

dsc04462

Cover the tamales with a banana leaf…

dsc04461

…and then cover the steaming basket with its lid. Steam the tamales for 60-90 minutes.

dsc04472

The tamales are done when the masa is firm and comes loose easily from the banana leaf.

dsc04475

You do not eat the banana leaf…

dsc04477

…so unwrap the tamale before eating.

Wine pairing

dsc04479

Although I suppose most tamales are enjoyed with margaritas or beer, it was very nice with this unoaked Mencía from Valdeorras in North-Western Spain. The wine is spicy and low in tannins, which works well with the pork and the sauce. A Zweigelt from Austria (a similar wine) would also work.

Flashback

DSC00233

These ‘water gnocchi’, made from a dough much like that of éclairs, are filled with a small piece of pancetta and served with a tomato sauce. The ‘surprise’ of the tasty pancetta inside of the pillowy gnocchi is wonderful, and it works very well with the tomato sauce. Although it is a bit of work to put a piece of pancetta into each gnocco, it is still a relatively quick fresh pasta dish.

Advertisements

24 thoughts on “Pork Tamales

  1. I have always wanted to make my own tamales! I’ll have to find a friend or friends to have a tamalada to do that, I’d probably be overwhelmed trying to do this myself. I am sure Richard would have been very pleased with your results. They look just delicious!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. I have made tamales using directions from the website of a food company. They were heavy. This is amazing to observe! This is very interesting. I will be using this recipe soon. My goal is to use dried chili peppers often. Your gnocchi are genius. Visiting your blog is a pleasure.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Huge ignorance as to matters past the name! Quite fascinating but spoken in a ‘strange’ language to me: well, we just have to try !!! Prof Boer: am a fast learner 🙂 !! Remember : I kind’of live in Asia . . . 🙂 !!

    Liked by 1 person

  4. From a self-professed tamale snob, these look spot on. I think it’s funny that you mention to not eat the banana leaves. You wouldn’t believe how many first-time tamale eaters try chewing through the corn husks. Again, outstanding!

    Liked by 2 people

  5. As one who got great pleasure in making Tex-Mex foods for my Dutch friends during my visits to Amsterdam, i applaud your willingness to tackle foods you’d never seen, much less eaten. The only southwestern Americans who make tamales are Mexican grandmothers. The rest of us just buy them from Mexican markets or street vendors. I do have to say that any Mexican or southwestern American would be horrified at being offered a tamale cooked in a bright green banana leaf instead of a corn husk because, although it wouldn’t harm the taste, it would look as wrong as mashed potatoes dyed green. Also, if you can get “masa harina”, it would probably be cheaper than the packaged Maseca brand of it. The word “instant” on the Maseca package is just marketing, which you can see if you look at the ingredients.

    Liked by 1 person

    • It was easier for me to get the banana leaves than the corn husks. I chose the photo of the tamales before steaming because I liked the bright green color. Funny that you mention Mexican grandmothers — Italians keep telling me that it’s only the grandmothers that still make ravioli from scratch, too.

      Liked by 1 person

  6. Ever since I lived in Mexico for the first time (I lived there twice), tamales are one of my favorite Mexican foods. Easy and fast to make and as flavorful as one wants them to be :-). My most loved condiment for tamales is salsa verde, other than that, anything goes, depending on the mood I am in 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Pingback: Flank Steak Sous-Vide Temperature Experiment | Stefan's Gourmet Blog

  8. Pingback: Tamales À La Carte – Snap's Blog

Leave a comment

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s