Today we flew from Adelaide to Melbourne, so we only had time to finish one winery in the Yarra Valley.

That winery was Coldstream Hills Vineyards of James Halliday. James (1938) was partner in a law firm until 1988, and moved to Melbourne in 1983. Since 1979 he has written numerous books on wine and since 1986 he has published an annual overview of Australian wine, the James Halliday Annual Wine Companion. In 1985 he founded the Coldstream Hills winery in Yarra Valley.

We visited him at his home with a beautiful view of the winery, his vineyards, and the Yarra valley.

Cees van Casteren, chairman of the Dutch association of vinologists, inaugurated James as an honorary member of the association.

James presented a vertical tasting of his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay:

• Coldstream Hills Vineyards Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2022: spicy, silky texture
• Deer Farm Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017: spicy, fresh, silky texture
• Deer Farm Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021: spicy, beautiful tannins
• Deer Farm Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022: spicy, beautiful tannins

• Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir 1991: earthy, complex, wine still has fruit and structure after all those years
• Deer Farm Vineyard Chardonnay 2022: fresh, creamy, mineral, elegant, nice acidity
• Deer Farm Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 (cool rainy vintage, no red made): mineral, complex, fresh
• Deer Farm Vineyard Chardonnay 2006: golden, creamy, honey, white peach, aged beautifully

These were remarkable wines made by a remarkable man. It is amazing how well the wines had aged, especially the Chardonnays. The 2006 seemed like it was a lot younger. It was also noteworthy that the Pinots and the Chardonnays each had a typical aroma that was present in all of the vintages.